[PDF]Woodworking, The Complete Step By Step Manual

[PDF]The Complete Step By Step Manual to Woodworking.

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WOODWORKING


THE COMPLETE STEP-BY-STEP MANUAL











IHH TOOLS | TECHNIQUES | WOODS | PROJECTS III


Previously published as Woodwork








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WOODWORKING


THE COMPLETE STEP-BY-STEP MANUAL


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CONTENTS


8 — Introduction


TOOLS


12 Introduction
13 Work Safely


HAND TOOLS

14 Saws

18 Planes

26 Chisels

30 Measuring and Marking Tools
35 Striking Tools

36 Clamps


POWER TOOLS


38 Drills and Drivers

40 Routers

46 Handheld Power Saws
48 Sanders and Nailers


STATIONARY AND MACHINE TOOLS


50
52
54
56
58
60
62
63
64
66
68
70
72
74


Table Saws

Band Saws

Planers and Thicknessers
Lathes and Cutting Tools
Mortisers

Commercial Joining Systems
Drill Presses

Fixings

Workshop

Workbenches and Work Supports
Sharpening Tools

Gluing and Clamping
Scrapers and Abrasives
Safety Clothing and First Aid





TECHNIQUES


78 Introduction
80 Preparing Wood


JOINERY


88 Choosing a Joint

90 Edge-to-Edge Joint

92 Loose Tongue-and-Groove Joint

94 Fixed Tongue-and-Groove Joint

96 Cross-Halving Joint

98 Dovetail Half-Lap Joint

100 Corner-Halving Joint

101 Scarf Joint

102 Full Housing Joint

104 Shouldered and Stopped Housing Joint


106 Dovetail Housing Joint


108
109
110
111

112
116
117
118
121
122
124
127
128
130
134
136


Butt-Miter Joint

Mitered Half-Lap Joint
Loose-Tongue Miter Joint
Keyed Miter Joint

Basic Mortise-and-Tenon Joint
Haunched-Tenon Joint

Secret Haunched-Tenon Joint
Wedged Through Mortise-and-Tenon Joint
Knockdown Tenon Joint
Draw-Bore Tenon Joint
T-Bridle Joint

Corner Bridle Joint

Comb Joint

Through-Dovetail Joint
Lapped Dovetail Joint
Floating Tenon Joint





138
146
148
153
160
168


Joints Using Commercial Connectors
Jigs and Templates

Turning Techniques

Veneering

Finishing Techniques

Restoring Furniture


WOODS


174
175
180
192


Woods
Softwoods
Hardwoods
Veneers


PROJECTS


196
198
200
202
205
208
212
217
222
230
234
240
246
250


Introduction
Cutting Board
Birdhouse
Coat Rack
Mirror Frame
Wine Rack
Hall Shelf
Laundry Box
Plate Rack
Screen
Bookcase
Breakfast Table
Bar Stool
Wall Cabinet





255
260
264
272
280
284
290
296
308
316
326
334
342
354
3/6


Garden Table
Garden Bench
Workbench
Demi-Lune Table
Trinket Box
Coffee Table
Toolbox

Bedside Table
Linen Chest
Chest of Drawers
Bed
Glass-Fronted Cabinet
Gateleg Table
Buffet

Chair


APPENDIX


388
394
399
400
400


Glossary

Index
Acknowledgments
About the Contributors
Picture Credits








INTRODUCTION


Wood has been fundamental to the development and survival of
humankind throughout history. Trees have provided us with the essentials
for living—oxygen, food, warmth, medicine, and shelter—as well as
offering the raw ingredients for key markers of cultural progress, such as
paper, furniture, musical instruments, and works of art. Even today, in a
world of sophisticated technology and materials, we still use wood for
much of our work on buildings and furniture, because of its versatility,
beauty, practicality, and availability.


Because of this long tradition, wooden furniture has a rich and diverse
heritage of styles, while examples that are centuries old can be found all
around us, everywhere from auctions and antiques shops to museums and
galleries. This range of styles and sense of tradition and craftsmanship
offer the modern woodworker an inspirational archive to draw upon,
whether designing or constructing their own pieces.


Creating furniture by hand is a skill that has to an extent been supplanted
by the development of power tools and machinery, yet the importance of
using hand tools cannot be underestimated. Tools may have advanced in
sophistication throughout history, but the fundamentals of woodworking
have not changed significantly over the centuries, and this age-old craft is
still the cornerstone of all furniture making. Of course, it is possible to
make furniture entirely by machine, but this requires a large workshop and
a very large wallet. By contrast, hand skills allow you to create furniture
within a limited space and with a limited budget, while experiencing the
pleasure of working closely with wood to craft an object of your choice.


In this second edition, Woodworking continues to celebrate the joys

of creating furniture. It provides a core grounding in the fundamental
woodworking skills and techniques and the use of both hand and power
tools; it shows you how to set up a workshop that is compatible with
your budget and space; it showcases a catalog of the various types of
woods available and their individual working properties; and it presents
you with achievable, yet challenging, projects. Whether you are a novice
or more experienced in the art of carpentry, Woodworking is an essential
addition to your bookshelf.


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TOOLS


INTRODUCTION


Much of the pleasure of woodworking comes from
the appreciation of the many tools used. Handling
and using a metal hand plane, for example, should
be enjoyable—the way the crisp wood shavings

curl up from a workpiece is a pure delight to the
woodworking devotee. Equally, a carving gouge
should be a joy to work with, and even a hammer
or a power drill are beautiful objects in their own
right. That said, tools are enjoyable (and safe) to use
only if they are well balanced and are kept clean and
sharp. It is also important to always use the correct
tool for the task at hand.


USING THE RIGHT TOOLS FOR THE JOB


You should avoid the temptation to simply browse a
manufacturer's catalog and order a vast range of tools. When
Starting out in woodworking, it is best to carefully consider your
first project—its size and shape, the materials and techniques
required—and then visit a quality tool supplier and select the
minimum amount of tools necessary to complete the job. Once
you start work, you may of course discover that you need more
tools—a different plane or another clamp, for example—but at


least these extra purchases will be guided by your actual needs.


Another important issue to address when buying tools is
whether to opt for power tools or hand tools. This decision
depends on whether you want the job done quickly and
easily—but with the noise, dust, set-up requirements, and
potential hazards associated with power tools—or whether
you would prefer to work more slowly and enjoy the quieter,
subtler pleasures of working with hand tools.

If you are an absolute beginner and have concerns about
your own abilities, the best way to seek advice and gain
confidence is either to work alongside an experienced
woodworker or join a woodworking group. If you are slight
of stature or not particularly strong, for example, you will be
able to discuss what you can and can't feasibly achieve in
the workshop. Equally, if you have limited funds, or your
working space is restricted, you will be able to discuss
your options. Above all, talking to and working with other
woodworkers will inspire you to make the most of your
newfound interest.


NEW OR SECONDHAND TOOLS?


some hand tools that are
secondhand. The main advantage
of buying secondhand tools is that
it may be possible to acquire a
complete set of tools—in their
own dedicated storage chest—
that have been lovingly cared

for by the previous owner.


As a general rule, hand tools should
last a lifetime and power tools and
machines are only as good as their
electrical parts. When deciding
between buying new or
secondhand tools, the best advice
is to buy new power tools and
machines and consider buying


BASIC TOOLS AND MATERIALS LIST


HAND TOOLS


MARKING AND

MEASURING TOOLS

Pencil

2 metal rulers—12in (300mm)
and 39in (1m)

Tape measure—léft (5m)

Marking knife

Try square or combination square
9in (225mm)

Protractor (if no combination
Square)

Sliding-bevel gauge

Mortise gauge

Marking gauge

Dovetail marker


SAWS
Panel saw
Tenon saw
Dovetail saw
Coping saw


PLANES

Jack plane

Smoothing plane

Block plane

Combination oilstone and oil


HANDHELD
POWER TOOLS


Jigsaw and selection of blades

Drill/driver (cordless) with set
of lip-and-spur wood drill bits,
countersink bit, and selection
of driver bit

Router with %in (10mm) straight
cutter, and bearing-mounted
cutter—buy further cutters
as required

Orbital sander

(Circular saw is a useful addition)


STORING TOOLS


You should treat the phrase “a place
for everything and everything in its
place” as a golden rule in the
workshop. It is important that you
know the location of your tools at
all times and that they are handy.
This will allow you to access each
tool as required, quickly and safely.
Carefully storing your tools will
help prolong their life; make sure
they are clean, well oiled, and
Stored in a dry box or chest, or in a
designated storage rack. The


CHISELS

Set of mortise chisels—
Ye-1in (6-25mm)

Set of bevel-edged chisels—
Ye-1in (6-25mm)


HAMMERS
Cross-pein hammer
Pin hammer


MISCELLANEOUS HAND

TOOLS

Mallet

Flat spokeshave

Double-cut flat file

Pincers

Bradawl

Set of screwdrivers

PVA wood glue and paintbrush—
in (12mm)

Rubber mallet

4 Gclamps—6in (150mm)

4 sash clamps—60in (1.5m)


FINISHING TOOLS


Straight cabinet scraper

Scraper burnisher

Cork sanding block

Sandpapers—120-grit, 180-grit,
220-grit, and 320-qrit

Paintbrush— 1%in (40mm)

Clean cotton cloths


MACHINE TOOLS


Band saw

Planer-thicknesser

Mobile dust extractor (attach
to above machines; essential
for planer-thicknesser)

Compound miter saw

Drill press with selection of
Forstner bits

(Table saw is a useful addition
if you have enough space)


working area needs to be dry, well
lit, dust-free, and clean—for the
benefit of both you and your tools.
Woodworking should be a
rewarding activity, but these
benefits will be realized only if the
workshop is a Safe, comfortable,
and orderly place to work. This is
true for all sizes of workshops, from
the largest production workshop to
the smallest garden shed. See
pp.64-65 for specific advice on
setting up your workshop.


SAFETY IN THE WORKSHOP


e Keep the working area clean

e Keep tools and equipment
well maintained

e Seek training in the correct
use of all equipment

e Use the appropriate personal
protective equipment (PPE)

e Follow the correct procedures—
never cut corners or rush a job

e Never work when tired or under
the influence of alcohol or drugs


WORK SAFELY


Tools can be very dangerous, so correct and safe use is
crucial. The chart below outlines the hazards associated
with common tools and the precautions that you
should take. However, you should also refer to the
manufacturer's instructions and seek formal training
whenever possible. For information about personal
protective gear (PPE), see pp.74-75.


e Disconnect the power before
adjusting machines or power
tools, or touching blades,
or cutters

© Do not wear loose clothing
or jewelry, and keep hair
away from rotating power
tools or machines

e Properly support a workpiece


HAND TOOLS


Look after your hand tools. Keep them
clean and well maintained—a dirty chisel,
for example, is hard to hold steady, and
the badly fitting head of a hammer, for
instance, may fly off.

Keep your blades sharp. While a blunt
cutting tool may inflict less damage than
a sharp one, it is more dangerous to use—
you will need to use more force, which
means it is more likely to slip.


HANDHELD POWER TOOLS


Ensure your handheld power tools
are electrically safe and that all
blades and cutters are securely
and correctly mounted on the tool.

While these tools may seem
small and unlikely to cause serious
injury, they work at very high
speeds and are powerful enough
to cause considerable injury.


MACHINE TOOLS


These powerful machines are potentially
highly dangerous and should be treated
with respect. This is not to say, however,
that you should use them in a timid way;
hold a workpiece firmly and feed it in in
a controlled—and deliberate—manner.


General precautions for machine tools


e Use push sticks to feed in a workpiece
e Always use the blade/cutter guards
e Always set the machine up correctly,
especially the cutter’s speed and position
e Never stand behind the workpiece in case
of kickback (the workpiece being “thrown”)
e Do not wear loose clothing or jewelry;
tie back long hair


TOOL


HAND SAW;
MARKING KNIFE


HAZARDS


e Cuts to hands


e Cuts to hands when
handling blades


PLANE


CHISEL AND OTHER CUTTING
TOOLS; SCREWDRIVER


e Piercing wounds


POWER TOOL HAZARDS
DRILL e Lacerations to hands
ROUTER e Cutter breakage


e Lacerations to hands
e Flying debris
e Tool jumping”


CIRCULAR SAW e Cuts and lacerations


SANDER e Respiratory damage


JIGSAW; JOINTER e Cuts and lacerations


NAILER e Piercing wounds

MACHINE HAZARDS

TABLE SAW e Kickback (workpiece
being “thrown’)

BAND SAW e Cuts and lacerations


to hands


RADIAL-ARM SAW e Saw “climbing” the


workpiece


PLANER e Kickback


PLANER-THICKNESSER e Trapped fingers


e Cuts and lacerations
to hands


LATHE; MORTISER;
DRILL PRESS


e Cuts and lacerations
to hands


ROUTER TABLE


SAFETY PRECAUTIONS


e Cover blade when not in use

e Support workpiece

e Never force the saw while cutting
e Take extra care when starting a cut


e Wear gloves when handling sharp blades


e Never place hand or body in front of blade


PRECAUTIONS


e Support the workpiece correctly (not with hands)


e Follow good practice; set router to correct speed

e Support the workpiece correctly (not with hands)

e Never start/stop tool while the cutter is in contact
with a surface

e Make cuts in the correct direction

e Mount the cutter correctly


e Always use the safety guards
e Support the workpiece correctly (not with hands)


e Wear PPE
e Take general precautions


e Never hold the tip of the nailer
e Support the workpiece correctly (not with hands)


PRECAUTIONS


e Adjust side fence correctly
e Seek assistance to help keep the kerf (width
of cut) open when machining thick boards


e Follow general precautions for machine tools


e Use a negative-rake blade


e Ensure that the infeed table is adjusted correctly


e Ensure that the workpiece is fully on the roller


e Follow general precautions for machine tools


e Ensure cutter guards are correctly positioned
e Make several small cuts rather than one large cut


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13


TOOLS


14


SAWS


Saws are an essential part of every woodworkers tool kit. Saw blades have serrated edges
called “teeth,” which are bent at an angle and set to alternate sides. When cutting through
wood, the teeth create a slot, or “kerf,” that is wider than the blade. This helps the blade move
freely through the wood without getting stuck. There are many different types of saws—such as
panel saws (opposite), back saws (p.16), and coping saws (p.17)—each designed for specific
woodworking tasks. Coping saws, for example, are used for cutting curves. Western (or
European) saws cut on the “push” stroke, whereas Japanese saws (p.17) cut on the “pull” stroke.





Panel saw


A typical panel saw has a large handle
Blade is thin and a blade deep enough to allow
and flexible repeated resharpening.


SHARPENING A SAW


Each type of saw is sharpened differently,
depending on its teeth. To sharpen a panel saw,
you need two types of files (one to flatten the
teeth and another to sharpen them), cramps,
rulers, and a saw set. The saw set—used for
adjusting the angle or “set” of each tooth—has

a rotating anvil, which changes the angle of the
Surface, and a “punch” that bends the tooth in the
right direction. Sharpening crosscut saws (inset)
requires a special file to sharpen the edges of
two consecutive teeth. Sharpening any saw
requires great skill, so it is worth bearing in mind





that using and sharpening traditional saws may 1 Position the saw securely in a specially made 2 Use a ruler to measure the number of teeth
>>>

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