[PDF]Backyard Composting

The Answer is




Backyard Composting

and Yard Waste Reduction




Your Guide to Backyard Composting
From Santa Barbara County Public Works



The Answer is Backyard Composting and Yard
Waste Reduction



County of Santa Barbara
Public Works Department




Resource Recovery & Waste Management Division
130 East Victoria Street, Suite 100

7 ,W\ W I,.



www. Less Is More .org

Original Design, Layout & Images

David Cowan

Horticulture Consultant

Marshal Chrostowski

Second Edition Design and Layout

Jeffrey Simeon

Special Thanks

CMM Staff

Originally Printed 1994
Second Edition Released 2009



Santa Barbara, California 93101
Main Office: (805) 882-3600




Table of Contents



Introduction i

Section 1 Choosing The Right Composting System 1

Section 2 Aerobic Composting 3

Section 3 Anaerobic Composting 8

Section 4 Vermicomposting 13

Section 5 Building Your Composting System 18

Section 6 Using Your Finished Compost 23

Section 7 Yard Waste Reduction 24

Section 8 Composting & Yard Waste Resources 29



Introduction



What is Compost?

Compost is a humus and nutrient rich soil-like material
formed by the decomposition of natural materials. It
improves the structural and nutritional quality of the soil,
which is fundamental to all plant growth. It helps create the
right type of environment for beneficial insects, worms and
other organisms, which in turn improves disease resistance
and a healthy root system. Compost also enhances moisture
retention, thereby reducing the need for water, a precious
resource.

Why Compost?

Much of what people throw away as trash at home could
be composted instead of landfilled. Composting allows you
to beneficially reuse food scraps and yard trimmings right
in your own backyard. That is preferable to the alternative
of burial in a landfill or inclusion in a less environmentally
friendly yard waste collection system.

This booklet will introduce you to the different types of
composting and help you determine which type is right for
your home. That way you can start recycling compostable
materials at your own home, and reduce your negative impact
on the environment while improving the land around your
home.

If you still have questions about composting after reading this
booklet, please contact the County of Santa Barbara's Composting
Specialist. See the inside cover for contact information.



Section 1



Choosing The Right Composting System




Before making a decision on what type of system you need,
ask yourself these four simple questions...

1 . What materials do I want to compost?

2. What volume of materials do I generate for composting?

3. How much time and effort can I dedicate to the
maintenance of a composting system?

4. How much yard space, if any, do I have available for a
composting system?

Write your answers down and compare them to the chart on
page 2. Determine what system(s) will fulfill your needs, and
read more about it in the corresponding chapters.

Composting bin cost.

Retail composting bins can be purchased from local hardware
stores and garden supply centers. Market prices for a bin can



Compost Compost Weekly Time& Yard
System Materials Volume Effort Space



Vermi-
composting


Non-fatty
food waste,
soft green
trimmings.


Less than
8 gallons.


Initial bin
set-up &
maintenance
of bedding
moisture.
No turning.


Minimal:
Can be
indoors or
outdoors.


Aerobic
Composting


Non-fatty
food waste,
soft green
trimmings.


Less than
6 gallons.


Minimal: Soil
& water must
be added once
per month.
No turning.


Minimal.


Anaerobic
Composting


Yard Waste:
shredded tree
limbs, leaves
&c grass.


Flexible
depending on
the volume of
materials 8c
number of bins.


Recommend-
ed weekly
to biweekly
turnings and
watering.


Minimal to
unlimited.


Two Bin
System/
Aerobic &
Anaerobic


See above.


See above.


See above.


Minimal to
unlimited.
Most
adaptable.



range from $30 to $300. The
County of Santa Barbara offers
discounted aerobic compost bins
Visit www.LessIsMore.org for
information about pricing and
availability. Homemade bins
can be built from a variety of
materials such as pallets, cinder
blocks, or wire fencing (see
Section 5). Building costs vary
from $0 to $90.




2



Section 2

Aerobic Composting




What is Aerobic Composting?

Aerobic composting is the decomposition of organic matter
by air-breathing microorganisms and larger soil life forms.
These decomposers are naturally present in the soil and
thrive in a moist and nutrient-rich environment. Primary
consumers such as bacteria and
fungi begin the decomposition
process. In ideal conditions, the
metabolism of bacteria creates
the heat of the composting pile.
Second and third level consumers,
such as beetles, centipedes,
earthworms, and millipedes,
complete the composting cycle,
leaving behind a dark brown
humus that is soil enhancing.




3



Choosing the Right Composting Site.

When setting up your composting system, choose a site
that is level and has good drainage. Accessibility, aesthetics,
and convenience should also be considered. To prevent
groundwater contamination, avoid placing a bin near
drainage courses or waterways. Plan your composting routine
before you assemble your bin to be certain that an important
necessity such as sufficient work space or access to a water
supply has not been overlooked.

Setting Up your Aerobic System.

Using a shovel or garden fork, loosen the ground where the
composting bin will rest. This will help with drainage and
aeration of the pile. Placing small branches or other bulky
organic material at the bottom of the bin will also help to
aerate the pile.

Materials to Aerobically Compost:

Leaves Grass Clippings Yard & Garden Trimmings

Manure Seaweed Coffee Grounds 8c Filters

Egg Shells (Crushed) Pet 8c Human Hair Most Plant Matter
Note: Eucalyptus leaves, pine needles and palm fronds decompose slowly.

Small Amounts of the following:

Untreated Paper Towels Untreated Tissue Paper Fruit 8c Vegetable Scraps
Wood Ash Sawdust Wood Shavings

Do NOT Aerobically Compost:

Meat or Bones Animal Fat or Oils Charcoal Briquette Ash

Dairy Products Pet or Human Waste (contains pathogens 8c parasites)



4



Composition of the Aerobic Pile.

The compost pile will require a mixture of materials rich in
carbon and nitrogen for efficient
decomposition. Nitrogen is most
abundant in fresh green yard and
garden trimmings and vegetable
scraps. Other good sources are
livestock manures and fresh
seaweed. Carbon dominates in
brown materials, such as leaves
(oak leaves are an excellent
source of carbon), chipped woody
brush, sawdust, and straw.



' % - ' «- ^^^^^



The proper compost mixture contains approximately three
parts carbon-rich ingredients to two parts nitrogen-rich
ingredients. If manures or nitrogen-rich fertilizers are
used, increase the volume of carbon-rich materials in the
pile. Excessive concentration of nitrogen-rich matter will
often cause putrification of your compost pile marked by a
strong ammonia odor. Too little nitrogen will not feed the
microorganisms, causing decomposition to stop.

Increasing Surface Area Speeds the Process.

For quicker composting, shred or chop materials being
added to the compost pile. The more surface area the
microorganisms have to work on, the faster the materials
are decomposed. Yard trimmings can be chopped up with
a machete or shovel, or run through a shredding machine
or lawn mower. Material that is too fine, however, may lead
to poor aeration and death of the organisms in the pile.



5



Amounts of Moisture and Aeration.

The compost should be kept slightly moist, like a damp
sponge, in order to ensure bacterial decomposition. As
you build the pile, be sure to moisten all materials by
layer. In dry, hot weather, it will be necessary to water the
compost once or twice a week. This is a good opportunity
to reuse your household rinse waters that do not contain
concentrated detergents. Covering a compost pile with
a tarp will also help to retain moisture and will prevent
nutrient leaching on rainy days.

For quicker compost, aerate your
pile at least once a week for the
first few weeks. For the best results,
turn the fresher outside materials
into the center of the newly
turned pile. In addition to the
traditional pitchfork, special tools
can be purchased to aerate piles
without tedious hand turnings.

Time and Temperature.

The speed of composting is dependent on the moisture,
aeration, and carbon-to-nitrogen ratio. A hot, steamy
compost pile is a definite indication that the ideal conditions
have been met. Only the outside of the pile will remain cool
and minimally affected by decomposing organisms. Aeration
and moisture are generally the main factors affecting the time
necessary to produce finished compost. Weekly turnings of
the pile will produce compost in one to two months; monthly
turnings will produce compost in four to six months.




6



When It's Time to Harvest.

Compost can be harvested when it is a rich dark brown
color; crumbly; and has a sweet, earthy smell. Before applying
to your yard or garden (see Section 6), allow the finished
compost to cool down for three days to several weeks.



Troubleshooting.



Symptom



Problem



Solution



Compost pile center is
damp, but cold.


Lack of Nitrogen.


Add Nitrogen-rich
materials such as animal
manure, fresh grass
clippings, seaweed or
blood meal.


Compost has a bad
odor.


Anaerobic conditions.


Turn pile. Add a bulk-
ing material (like straw)
if the pile materials are
too fine.


Compost has an
ammonia-like odor.


Too much Nitrogen.


Turn pile, add carbon-
rich materials.


Center of pile is dry.


Not enough moisture.


Water pile while you
turn it.


Compost is warm and
damp in the middle, but
nowhere else.


Pile is too small.


Increase the volume
of the pile with yard
waste, grass clippings, or
garden trimmings.



7



Section 3

Anaerobic Composting




What is Anaerobic Composting?

Anaerobic composting is the slow decay of organic matter
through fermentation. Unlike aerobic composting, the pile
will not heat up. Microorganisms that thrive in a low-
oxygen environment (mostly bacteria) reduce nitrogen-
containing or sulfur- containing compounds found in
organic matter to yield humus, organic acids, and gases.

Setting up your Anaerobic System.

Ideally, two anaerobic composting bins should be used
to allow for continuous composting. While one is
finishing composting, the other can be filled. If you plan
to construct a homemade composting bin, be sure to
choose a bottomless barrel with a lid that seals tightly
and has a capacity of 35 gallons or more (see Section 5).



8



An anaerobic composting bin should
be located in a spot with good
drainage. Accessibility, aesthetics,
and convenience should also
influence where your bin is placed. If
located under or next to fruit trees,
they will benefit from the added
moisture and nutrients. To prevent
the contamination of water, avoid
a bin location near waterways or

drainage courses. To prepare the site, w^^^sss^s^^^^sm

dig a hole 6 to 12 inches deep, set the

bin into the hole, and pack the ground firmly around the bin.
Lining the bottom of your bin with ^-inch poultry wire will
fortify it from scavengers but still allow earthworms to enter.

Materials to Anaerobically Compost:

Non-Fatty Kitchen Scraps Houseplant Clippings Coffee Grounds 8c Filters
Egg Shells (Crushed) Pet 8c Human Hair Tea Bags
Untreated Paper Towels Untreated Tissue Paper

Small Amounts of the following:

Wood Ash Grass Clippings Leaves

Do NOT Anaerobically Compost:

Meat or Bones Animal Fat or Oils Charcoal Briquette Ash

Dairy Products Woody Yard Trimmings Saw Dust

Pet or Human Waste (contains pathogens 8c parasites)

How the System Works.

Anaerobic composting works best with nitrogen-rich
materials such as non-fatty kitchen scraps and soft

9




green clippings. It is important to avoid adding carbon-
rich materials such as dry leaves, sawdust and woody
yard waste. These materials will retard or even halt the
anaerobic composting process and should be composted
aerobically or placed in a green waste collection container.

Do not open your anaerobic composting bin more than two
times per week. Over-exposure to oxygen impedes beneficial
microorganisms and slows efficient composting. Frequent
trips to the composting bin can be reduced by simply storing
daily food scraps in a sealed garbage pail that can be placed
under the sink or in the refrigerator.

Two inches of soil or finished compost should be added to
your bin once a month to inoculate it with the necessary
microorganisms and to keep the fruit fly population down.

Increasing Surface Area Speeds the Process.

As with aerobic composting, the more surface area the
microorganisms have to work on, the faster the materials will
decompose. Chopping or bruising kitchen scraps and soft
green clippings will speed up the composting process.

Keep it Moist.

Always keep the materials in your anaerobic composing
bin moist. If the material gets too dry, it will not compost.
Proper moisture content will help to exclude oxygen from
your compost and keep fruit flies and ants from invading
your bin. An anaerobic composting bin should be watered
at least once a month. It can never be over watered, so take
advantage of household rinse waters which do not contain
detergents, bleach or boron/borax to water compost.



10



Time and Temperature.



Anaerobic compost will require
up to three months to mature
once the bin is full, depending
on the moisture content and
the type of materials being
composted. Although this system
will not achieve high, sustained
temperatures, pathogens dangerous
to people and pets will be destroyed
over time.

Harvesting your Finished Anaerobic Compost.

Organic material added to the composting bin will, over
time, reduce in volume due to the fermentation process.
When the bin reaches full capacity, a second bin can be
started. Finished compost will be dark brown and moist. It
should be allowed to dry and aerate for one to two weeks
before using. To harvest the finished compost, simply pull
up the container, shovel the contents aside, and place the bin
back in the hole. Anaerobic compost can be applied to the
yard and garden using techniques described in Section 6.

Keeping the Anaerobic Composting Bin Healthy.

A moist anaerobic composting pile with a slimy consistency
and a slight sulfur odor are sure signs that your bin is
working properly. Do not be alarmed by the presence of
insect larvae, worms, beetles and other scavenging organisms.
They are all part of the composting process and also indicate
a productive bin.




11



A healthy anaerobic bin often has traits considered unhealthy
in an aerobic bin; review Section 2 to see the qualities of an
unhealthy aerobic composting bin, and contact the County
Composting Specialist whenever you have questions or need
technical assistance.



Troubleshooting.



Symptom



Problem



Solution



Ant population around
the base and in the bin.


Bin is dry.


Soak bin contents with
water. Pack down if
necessary.

Never use pesticides.


Interior of composting
bin has large fruit fly
population.


Bin is dry.


Soak bin contents with
water, add two inches or
soil, limit bin opening
to one or two times per
week.

Never use pesticides.


Bin materials will not
compost.


Too much woody waste
has been added and/or
bin is dry.


Soak bin contents with
water, discontinue add-
ing woody waste.


Outside of bin is being
dug up.


Opossums, skunks, rac-
coons or other scav-
engers are feeding on
your bin's compost and
earthworms.


Line the bottom and
sides of the composting
bin with ^"bird wire.
Discontinue adding
fatty kitchen scraps.


Soup-like compost with
a large fly population.


Insufficient drainage
(rarely occurs).


If homemade bin, be
certain that the bottom
of the compost bin is
removed, relocate to an
area with better drainage.



12



Section 4

Vermicomposting




What is Vermicomposting?

Vermicomposting is the use of worms to consume organic
waste. This efficient and odor free method of composting
produces nutrient-rich worm castings. Organisms, such as
bacteria and sow bugs, also assist in this aerobic composting
process. Vermicomposting is ideal for small amounts of
non-fatty food scraps, leaves and soft green trimmings.
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