[PDF]candlemaking

CANDLEMAKING

Introduction



PRACTICAL ACTION

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This technical brief contains the essential information required to begin the small-scale
production of both functional and decorative candles. Candles have been made since the
earliest times and they are still commonly made by well established methods requiring only
simple equipment. This brief describes how a candle works, and specifies the materials
needed for making candles. Four common production methods are also explained with ideas
for decorative variations.

How a candle works

A candle is a very simple product which in its simplest form is made up of a central string,
(known as the wick) which is surrounded by a fuel source that nowadays is almost always a
type of wax. When the wick is lit the heat of the flame melts the surrounding fuel (wax) into a
liquid pool which is absorbed by the wick. The heat produced causes the liquid wax to
vaporise and this vapour becomes the fuel for the burning flame. In a well designed candle
the wick and the wax will burn off at a slow and uniform rate to provide a steady flame and
dripping will not occur.

Candlemaking materials

Waxes (the fuel for the candle)

Historically candles were made from animal fats such as beef, sheep and whale fat, but
today cleaner and more efficient waxes are used. Most modern candles are made
predominantly from paraffin wax which is usually mixed with a small proportion of other wax
such as stearine.

Paraffin wax

Paraffin wax is the most important raw material used in candlemaking. It is available in most
countries in solid slabs or as pellets or flakes. It is usually white in appearance but goes
clear when liquid. It is odourless, tasteless and firm to the touch. Paraffin waxes are supplied
with various melting-points ranging from 46° to 68°C. Those waxes which melt at around
58 °C are ideal for candlemaking in temperate climates, although wax with a higher melting
point is required for use in hotter climates.

Stearine

Stearine is a component of many animal and vegetable fats and has become an important
material in candle making. It is important as a hardening agent for paraffin wax owing to its
good temperature stability. It helps to overcome the problem of 'bending' which is sometimes
experienced with paraffin wax candles in hotter climates. Stearine also helps in the release
of candles from moulds, and improves burning qualities. It is commonly supplied as white
flakes or granules. Stearine is usually added to paraffin wax in quantities of about 10% but
this can be increased to achieve quality improvements. Candles can be made from 100%
stearine.

Beeswax

Beeswax is a very highly regarded candle making material. It is excellent for making dipped
and poured candles which are usually marketed as a premium product. The wax burns
slowly and tends to give off a pleasant natural aroma. Beeswax is obtained by melting the
honeycomb of the bee in hot water, straining it and allowing it to cool. At this stage it is a
brownish-yellow colour but it can be lightened by bleaching. The wax has a melting point of
about 64 °C, and is a relatively soft and sticky substance with means that it is difficult to

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mould in rigid moulds. Beeswax can be mixed with paraffin wax in quantities of about 5% to
improve both the burning time and appearance of the candles.

Vegetable waxes

Many plants, shrubs and trees yield waxes which can be extracted and processed for use in
the manufacture of candles. In some cases it may be possible to use these waxes as the
main source of fuel for the candle; in others it may only be possible to use them in small
quantities to improve the qualities of another wax. Some vegetable waxes (such as soya)
are marketed as sustainable and healthy alternatives to paraffin wax because they are
derived from renewable sources and often burn more cleanly than paraffin wax.

Other waxes and additives

A variety of specialist waxes and additives are available from specialist candlemaking
suppliers but none of these are essential to begin with. They include:

• Dip and carve wax which is soft enough to carve and model at low temperatures.

• Microcrystalline waxes which can be added to paraffin wax to reduce or increase
hardness.

• Overdipping wax which gives a high gloss coating to a candle.
Wick

The wick is a very important component of a candle and should be selected with care.
Most modern wick is made from braided cotton strands (not cotton thread). A flat braid is
adequate for most candles but square and round braided wick is also produced. Some wicks
also include a paper or wire stiffener which helps when making container candles (lead core
wicks should be avoided). In countries with established candlemaking industries, wicks may
be obtained directly from wholesalers or craft suppliers. It is also possible to make wicks by
hand if necessary. When the wick is lit, the flame should radiate sufficient heat to melt a
small pool of wax at the top of the candle. The liquid wax is then drawn up towards the flame
by capillary action where it vaporises and is burnt. When lit, a correctly proportioned wick will
curl into the hottest (outer) part of the flame and burn away at its tip, to give a clean bright
flame (figure 1).

The basic principle in selecting a wick is: the
larger diameter the candle, the thicker the wick.
If the wick used is too thick, a large flame will
melt the wax too fast and cause dripping on the
outer edge of the candle. Conversely, if the
wick used is too thin, the flame will be unable to
generate enough heat to vapourise sufficient
wax and will probably 'drown' in its own wax
pool. Substances such as beeswax which are
viscous when liquid require a thicker wick than
substances with a lower viscosity. In general,
the more viscous the liquid fuel, the thicker the
wick required. Some trial and error testing is
usually necessary.

Dyes and scents

Where candles are being sold as decorative items rather than as a source of light, colour
and scent can be used to increase the attractiveness of the product.

Candle dyes are available in solid blocks or as powder which can be directly added to the
wax as it is melting. A wide range of colours are available and suppliers will provide
information concerning quantities required, as this will vary depending upon the
concentration of the dyes. It is advisable to mix small test samples of colour before




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producing candles, particularly since some colours tend to change as they cool. Some dyed
candles will have a tendency to fade over time, especially if left in strong light.

Scented candles are now a well established and popular product. Some countries have
suppliers offering scents specifically designed for candles. These are liquids that are added
to the melted wax during production. The result is a scented candle which usually releases
more fragrance when it is lit. The degree to which the scent is released from the wax is
known as the 'throw'. Essential oils can also be used as scents for candles and other locally
available natural fragrances can be experimented with.

Heating methods
Safety

When heating wax it is very important to be aware of some essential safety precautions.
It is important that wax is not overheated. At high temperatures (usually above about 15 nq C)
wax will start to smoke and give off unpleasant and dangerous fumes. At a higher
temperature wax will reach its 'flash point' and can spontaneously ignite. An open flame will
also ignite liquid wax. Once burning, liquid wax is difficult to extinguish and can cause a
serious fire. If a fire does start, the heat source should be tuned off immediately and if
possible the burning wax should be staved of air (oxygen) by covering with a metal lid or a
damp cloth. On no account try to extinguish burning wax with water as it will intensify the fire.

The chances of overheating can be greatly reduced if the wax melting pot is not heated
directly. To do this, the melting pot can be placed into a larger container of hot water and the
wax heated by the surrounding water. This is known as a double boiler (figure 2). Even with
this method, always make sure that the water does not boil away.



Electricity

Electricity is ideal as a source of heat if it is available, as it is easily controlled. A domestic
cooker can be used or heating elements may be attached to the bottom of a suitably sized
tank. Electrically heated water jackets may also be used.

Gas

Tanks or pots may be heated on gas burners such as domestic gas cookers. The use of a
water bath (double boiler) is safest. If heating a container of wax directly, make sure that the



Figure 2:
Double boiler




Wax



Water



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container has a thick bottom to prevent the wax from burning and take precautions against
hot wax coming into contact with the gas flame. The use of a gas heated water jacket may
also be considered.

Solid fuel

Solid fuel should only be used where no other source of fuel is available. Great care must
be taken to prevent wax from being spilt onto an open fire.

Containers for heating wax

Containers made of aluminium or stainless steel are ideal as they will not rust. However
steel or iron can also be used (except in the case of beeswax, where iron equipment is not
suitable). Copper and brass should be avoided as they cause oxidisation. Large cooking
pots are ideal as a first option, but purpose designed containers can be made by
metalworkers as the need arises.

Methods of measuring and controlling temperature

It is possible to start making candles without any means of measuring the temperature of the
wax, but to make candles efficiently a thermometer or better still thermostatically controlled
heater is required. A cooking thermometer (otherwise know as a 'jam or 'sugar'
thermometer) is ideal as it will measure temperatures well above that of boiling water. It is
important that a thermometer is not heated beyond its upper limit as this is likely to make it
very inaccurate in the future.

If it is available, a thermostat is a very good way of controlling the temperature of the wax,
provided that it has been accurately calibrated. The use of a thermostat in conjunction with
some form of electrical heating equipment allows the wax to be heated to a specified
temperature and maintained at that temperature without the need for frequent manual
checking and adjustment.

Methods of production

There are four basic methods of candlemaking (each described below) which are particularly
suitable for small-scale manufacture:

• Dipping

• Pouring

• Moulding (or casting)

• Container candles.

Dipping

Dipping is the simplest method of making candles. It can be used to make a small number of
candles by hand, with very simple equipment, or as a production process for manufacturing
large numbers of candles in a variety of sizes and colours.

Method

Heat the wax in the dipping container to the required temperature. The temperature will vary
with the type of wax used, but 70°C is a good starting point (eg. for 90% paraffin wax to 10%
stearine).

The appropriate thickness wick is then selected and lowered into the wax for the first time.
For the first dip only, the wicks should be left to soak in the wax for about two minutes to
allow air and moisture to escape. This process is known as priming the wicks and should
be done with all new wicks. The primed wicks can be drawn through the fingers as they cool,
so that any lumps are removed. This will help to ensure that the finished candles are smooth
and uniform. Once the wicks are primed the continual dipping process can begin. The
wicks are repeatedly dipped into the hot wax for about 3-4 seconds at a time. They must be
allowed to cool slightly between each dip (for between 1 and 4 minutes, depending upon



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room temperature). Each time the wicks are dipped another layer of wax is built up and the
candles begin to take shape. In order to obtain a well-formed candle, the wick should be
submerged and withdrawn as smoothly as possible to achieve even layers with no drips or
other surface imperfections. The length of the candles will result from the depth to which
they are dipped and their thickness will be determined by the number of times they are
dipped.

The temperature of the liquid wax is important and should be frequently measured; if the
liquid wax gets too hot it will melt off more wax from the candles than it adds. On the other
hand, if the liquid wax is allowed to get too cool a fine skin will form on the top of the wax
and interfere with the clean dipping process. The rate at which the candles grow depends
upon three things; the temperature of the wax, the room temperature and the time allowed
between dips. When the required thickness has been achieved, the candles are removed,
trimmed at their lower ends and allowed to cool.




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Colours and effects

Dipped candles can be made from pre-coloured wax which will give them a solid colour
throughout their thickness. Alternatively they can be made in white wax and then given a
final dip in coloured wax which will produce a coloured 'outer skin'. This is known as
'overdipping'.

After the final dip and while the candles are still warm they can be experimented with to
produce a variety of decorative shapes. They can for example be rolled flat and twisted or
shaped into curves or twisted together before being allowed to cool completely. Alternatively
warm candles may be rolled on a flat warm glass, metal, or stone surface for a very smooth
surface finish.



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Equipment

At the simplest level, dipping may be carried out
by holding the centre of a wick and dipping it
repeatedly by hand so that a pair of candles is
produced (figure 3). Although this will result in a
low production rate, it is the principle on which all
dipping equipment is based. In larger scale
production, a large number of wicks are
suspended from a frame and dipped in turn.

Figure 4 illustrates a continuous dipping process
for four or more wick holders suspended from a
wheel. Using this method, the wheel is rotated
after each dip to enable a fresh set of wicks to be
presented for dipping.




Figure 4: Dipping equipment



Pouring candles is very simple and similar in principle to dipping, as it is also a process
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